P1569 mazda protege 20021/21/2024 The light came back on, I took it to the dealer, dealer pulled the same code & said that before Mazda would cover the replacement of the cat under the emissions warranty, BUT FIRST I had to have some work done to "clean" then engine since it was running "dirty", THEN if the light came back on, they would replace the cat. The first time the shop said that if it came on again, take it to the dealer due to the 8 yr emission warranty. Im also not sure if this reader does the PID's or not.Ĭould my O2 sensor be damaged from the too lean code? Perhaps there was too much fuel added by the ECU and it messed with the O2 sensor? I wasnt able to get the O2 sensor I/M to stay solid.I've had the P0421 (warm-up catalyst system below threshold) code pulled from my car twice. The reader only will show the yellow which indicates not a complete test and that there could be problems. Also there are three lights, a green a yellow and a red. Im guessing these systems aren't ready to test yet? I did some research and the EV and O systems are supposed to be turned on by doing this driving procedure i looked up but it didn't seem to make the lights turn on. However not all the I/M lights are solid. I also got a code reader the Innova 3020 and it shows no codes. Step 3 or 4 askes me to connect a reader and check some PID's. I went to the diagnostic section and it has a list of steps for the issues i am having. This car is so finicky, I can't believe you're not throwing codes though. Then do a smoke test to search for vacuum leaks. What I would do if you're not throwing codes first is make sure all of your connectors are connected and vacuum lines are hooked up properly. Maybe in all I've spent $100 and that's including an ECU and intake manifold. I have spent little on all of this because I am frequently at the salvage yard and parts are cheap. The other tests I'm going to perform is a smoke test for leaks and a compression test. I'm probably just going to replace it since my car has over 250,000 miles. So my next tests will be the fuel pump hence the P0090 code. (This is want prompted me to do the VTCS delete in the first place). My P1569 code is frustrating and must be a wire issue as I've replaced that sensor with 4 different solenoids. My P0421 code I attribute to the header wrap I just installed as I've been running the fouler plugs with no codes. I'm surprised you're not throwing any CEL codes. I'm running better, but I'm still having random high idle issues, but what you are describing is how my car was running after the intake manifold work I finished. Replaced all of the vacuum hoses, new AEM intake, two MAF sensors, PRC solenoid, VTCS and VICS solenoids, cam sensor and the ECU. I recently did the VTCS delete, replaced the intake manny gaskets, TB gaskets, cleaned the EGR, IAC and TB. I've been having these issues myself, and trust me I have been trying to narrow the problem down ad nauseum. Does anyone got any ideas? I am thinking it is a sensor issue. The engine doesn't through any codes anymore so i don't really know where to look.Ĭould this issue be related to the issue i had before? Did too much air from the damaged rubber boot cause the engine to carbon up with too much fuel over time time? Seems unlikely to me. It used to get 14 KM/L and now i am getting 12 KM/L. Basically there is something wrong with the way it runs. It also wants to lurch sometimes in first gear if your just idling. Once your past the 3000 RPM area it makes much more power, what you would expect from a 1.6. Sometimes like this it will just bog and not want to accelerate even though it should. Ive been driving it before and been going up a slight hill, shift into second and with full throttle it just stays at 2000 RPM's. It doesn't really have the power it should at the low RPM's. Also it maybe does it at higher RPM's but i don't know for sure. Plus if your accelerating, it will hesitate at 2250 RPM's area. If i am in traffic and am gonna turn left after a car goes, i will rev the engine up to 2500 area and then let out the clutch since it will be very slow to accelerate otherwise. Basically it doesn't rev properly off idle. No check engine light anymore but the car doesn't run properly. Now that i got the issue fixed i am still having issues. However now that it is winter it is time for the protege again. I haven't drove this car since the summer started coz i was driving my V8 Rx-7. I guess it had cracks in it that allowed air into the car behind the sensor. I fixed it by replacing the rubber boot thing that was behind the MAF sensor. I had an issue with the car that threw a too much fuel code. So i have a 2000 Mazda protege 1.6L standard.
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